I have made a home made insulation blower. You shoud buy a good size electric leaf blower and modify it.you have to take the large leaf suction end off the blower and reduce it to inch and 1/4 size and also the delivery end has to be reduced to (1!/4) also. After you make these modifications You can buy about 30 fett of this size plastic hose it is sold to be used on sump pumps and is verry flexabe.
Also verry affordable and if you need an extension on the end of yoiur delivery hose you just fot another piece of hose on there and use some masking tape to hold the hoses to gether. You will need a box to put the celuose(old traeted newspapers) in and I made a box about 3ft long and about 2 ft high and 2 feet wide. The insulation material needs to be broken up with a paddle so that it will go through the blower and not plug it up.so I add about 1/3 of a bag of materials and break this up with a paddle before using the blower to put insulation in the walls.
When doing the walls drill a inch and 1/2 whole in the walls, and at the end of the hose you use to fill the walls put some masking tape around the hose so that it fights snugly in the wlaa cavity to be filled. The end of the hose should be a tapered fit into the wall. If you drill a few wall cavites at the same time Cover the wholes with masking tape except for the one you are filing with insulation and once you finish filling a wall cavity cover the whole with masking tape untill a more permanet repair can be made to the wall.with gprock and filler. On the blower you shpuld have a 3 or 4 ft, suction hose and a 8 to 10 ft exhaust hose and if need sections can be adder to the delivery side of the hose. On the top of the box that holds the insulation. I made a board with a whole in it to hold the blower in place and I can do the job my self with out a helper.
I had a contractor give me a estimater of doing my house and it was about 2000 dollars I bought the blower and modified it and bought the insulation and did the whole job for less than 700 dollars. The blower was filled up with dust inside of it and this corroded the electricall parts inside the blower and when I tried to use it the next year there was nothing happening due to the corrosion inside my leaf blower. I am going to add an other electricall motor to that and have my improved and modified blowe up and running soon.
If you have question feel free to conatct me my e is. Happy insulation everyone.
Long time lurker, first time poster, here. Kind of a dumb question, and I'm pretty sure the answer is 'no', but I can't find any information to the contrary. We have recently purchased the second floor of a condo, that was an old (mid 1800's was the inspectors best guess - old enough that the original portion of the basement has rough-hewn logs as some of the joists for the floor above) building that had been apartments for quite some time. Not the best shape, but it's ours. There was an awful built-in the main room, with an odd bit rising out of the top of it to the ceiling line. From the attic, it became evident that this was the painted-over remnants of a chimney. At some point, the chimney was removed to below the roof line, the hole covered, and the visible remnants below turned into a built-in.
After removing this, it came to our attention that the wall cavities behind the built in where not insulated when the rest of the walls and floor of the attic had cellulose insulation installed. (Presumably because there was a fireplace or woodstove there, and a chimney.) My question is, considering that I'm looking at only insulating one and half (the half because the joist spacing is irregular in that area) wall cavities, for a room that has ceilings just under 7.5', is it possible in any way to install the insulation by hand without a blower? There are no top plates on this exterior wall so the insulation would be easy to put in there by hand (if this is possible) The house may be balloon framed - if it is ballooned framed, there is at least a firestop between floors.
So what's the verdict? Am I stupid for even contemplating this? Just seems like I ought to be able to bring some insulation up to the attic, fluff it up, insert it into the wall, tamping it down somewhat to make sure voids are filled, and avoid having to rent a blower for such a small area. I'm sure you could find something to throw down there that would be helpful.
Cellulose Insulation Problems
I'm having a hard time thinking of what it would be. I have some things to consider if trying to figure it out though. As tempting as it would be to try and fluff up some cellulose by hand I don't think it would work that well. When it comes out of the package it's pretty tightly compressed. A big part of what the machine dose if fluff it. It's hard enough braking it into chunks that will go into the machine.
The next tempting item would be some sort of packing peanuts being that they would acutely fall all the way to the bottom. These however pose some significant fire risks. I don't think the paper based ones are treated as cellulose is and the styrofoam ones seam like the perfect thing to melt, fume, smolder and cause a flash fire. If there where some specialty packing material that had to be fire treated that might be good thing.
I don't think that it would be nearly as affective as blown in cellulose however. Keep your eye out for an installer in the neighborhood and see if you can slip the truck operator $20.00 and a beer to stop by your place at the end of the day. Or a home cooked lunch is always nice in the middle of a working day and has some significant negotiation leverage. Any way I know I didn't come up with any solutions but I'll keep thinking about it. Let us know it you have any more clever ideas.
Jesse Pender Portland Tradesmen. Hrm - good point about loosening that stuff up - I forgot how compressed it comes packed. As far as renting the machine - the amount needed for this small wallspace isn't enough for them to toss in the free rental, apparently. At least, the one place I checked.
(I haven't looked into this much yet.) I figured since I'm going to be up in the attic (which is more than a crawlspace, but not really an attic, either) for a good chunk of time over the next week or so, working on wiring, and replacing the bathroom fan and ducting for it, I might as well do this while I'm up there. Of course, we may just want more insulation in the attic as well, at which point getting the machine for a free rental becomes an option. The other issue is that getting the blower to this second floor wall is a bit of a hassle - it's a long, winding route to the outdoors, and about as far from the tiny attic hatch as you can get in the house.
Since cellulose insulation is compressively packaged you cannot install it without using a blowing machine. I do not recommend trying to do this by hand.
'A few bags' may not qualify you for loan of a machine, but you can certainly rent one from a big box home center or an equiment rental service. The R-factor of fiber insulation follows an inverse 'U' curve. As density increases, R-factor increases-up to a point. Dense packed cellulose insulation at 3.0 to 3.5 pcf-typical installed density in closed cavities-has an R-factor of 3.9 or 4.0, compared with 3.7 or 3.8 at settled density. Fiber glass at 2.2 to 2.5 pcf may have an R-factor in excess of 4.0, compared with 2.2 to 3.1 at design density. At some point the curves for both materials turn around and R-factor decreases with greater density. For cellulose that seems to be somewhere between 3.5 and 4.0.
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Having just done this, I'll report: doable, but a huge PITA. In order to get a good 'fluff' on it, I ground it through expanded metal mesh (having tried a few other things which did not work as well first) - it's time consuming and dusty, but certainly possible if all you have to do is a bag/block or two.
Installing Cellulose Insulation In Walls
I've done one block, I might do another just to check the quality of a different supplier before placing a large order. I don't have facilities to assess what sort of plastic contamination it was, nor did I try to evaluate the percentage. I found many pieces (dozens) in a single bale. Some of it appeared to be plastic strapping from bundled paper with was obviously tossed straight into the grinder rather than having the strapping removed - other stuff was less clear in origin.
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I bought and paid for a bale of cellulose insulation, not a bale of cellulose insulation and plastic scrap. The other supplier appeared to be able to meet that standard and was actually a hair cheaper, too. – Jan 26 '17 at 0:11. That type of insulation comes highly compressed, blowing it in will get separated and back to its original size.
Without decompressing it the insulation won't have any air space, so less insulation value. You will end up using more insulation material and spending more money for less insulation capability. Additionally without a blower you'll have trouble getting it actually dispersed into your wall in the first place. Blowing it in will get it spread out evenly, simply pouring it in will likely leave large gaps, meaning less actual insulating. Next you have the time factor.
Blowing it in is quick, but if you do it manually it's going to take much longer. First you'll have to find a way to decompress it fully, then lift it up to the hole, then push it in the hole, then manually disperse it somehow.
![Without Without](/uploads/1/2/3/8/123815127/923668030.jpg)
So can you do it without blowing it in? Yes, but it will take much longer to do, cost more in insulation, and not be as effective in insulating your home, meaning more money lost over time.
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